NEW LOWER PRICES ON ALL SERVOS
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We offer only the servos that we like the best. We only use digital servos since they hold the neutral positions very tightly and thereby eliminate flutter. Metal gear servos are a must at the high loads that 3D flying produce. Hitec and JR are the most commonly used servos. I have used both for years with great success. HD Power servos have the best prices. Do not use plastic servo arms or servos with plastic gears in giant scale planes. We prefer digital servos for the throttle for repeatable idle.
Hitec 5955 vs JR 8711
Test Results Click Here!
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SEIKO SERVOS: |
INSTALLING TWO SERVOS ON ONE CONTROL SURFACE? A good option if using Hitec programmable servos is to increase the deadband of one of the servos to 5 microseconds and leave the other servo at 1 microsecond to reduce the binding of the two servos as they travel throughout their range. You will need the Hitec programmer to do so. Another option is to use the JR Matchbox. See the Servo Programmer page. |
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JET SERVOS JR servos have been used quite extensively over the years in jets. With the advent of Hitec's digital servos, it is a good idea to consider them. Hitec servos are just as good, if not better than JR servos, and their pricing is better. I use Hitec servos in all my planes. While the control surface throw is low, it is still best to use digital servos. They provide better resistance to flutter and provide a much more solid feel in flight. I recommend metal gear servos, even in the most simple cases, like retract valves and brake actuators, because if there is any problem, it is important that the gears will not strip out. We do offer the HS85BB for those applications which is nylon gears if you desire. To help you make the transition, I have grouped similar servos together by color. You can see in the chart below for instance that the Hitec HS-85 servos are similar to the JR servos, yet the Hitec offer better pricing. |
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HOW TO CHOOSE SERVOS
1) Servos in giant scale planes must have metal gears. Plastic will break.
2) If the plane is set up for 3D you must use digital servos.
3) Servo arms must be aluminum or they will strip on the servo's splined shaft.
4) Servo screws which hold the servo arms in place must be Loctited (blue) to keep them in.
5) Servo volume on your transmitter should be at 120% or so to maximize mechanical advantage.
6) If the ailerons are weak and can twist easily in your hand and there are two servo bays in each wing then you must use two servos or the ailerons will flutter at high speed. Exactly what speed they will flutter at depends on a lot of things. You will hear them flutter at some speed, and if you are lucky and have strong servo gears and strong linkages and strong control horns and lots of hinges and a strong wing and strong servo arms and strong clevises you will be able to slow down before your wing or aileron rips off. If you hear flutter, you need less control surface throw by reducing the throw mechanically NOT with the travel volume on your transmitter, stronger servos, or more servos.
7) Lots of control surface movement means the gear slop and linkage slop shows up into lots of control surface play. The more play there is the quicker the gears get more slop. The best way to control this is to keep everything as slop free as possible in the first place by tightening up the hardware, use titanium gear servos, and use the least amount of control throw as possible.
8) If you plan on flying hard freestyle programs with lots of speed and lots of control throws and hard maneuvers with a 40% size plane then you should consider 3 servos per aileron and 2 per elevator. This will greatly extend your servo's (and probably your airplane's) life. If you will be doing some 3D but aren't planning on doing extremely violent maneuvers, then just 2 servos per aileron and one per elevator are plenty. If you will be flying with maximum IMAC type throws of 15 degrees on the ailerons and 12 degrees on the elevators, you won't have any worries with the latter set up.
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